Gent, Belgium

Yesterday, we took advantage of the lack of rain and decided to go to Gent, which is only an hour and fifteen minutes from here. Gent is in the Flemish region of Belgium, which meant that any French that we had learned was out the window and better to speak English. We had heard that Gent is right up there with Brugge for beauty and canals, so away we went.
After a lovely dinner at a pizzeria, where the waiters spoke in Italian, we took off to explore. Gent has the largest car free city center in all of Belgium, which is wonderful when you have a crazy toddler that hasn't napped. After taking a picture of our cheesy son near a beautiful statue, we went into the cathedral of Saint Bavo. So far, in our travels, St. Waudru Cathedral in Mons has been the most impressive cathedral that we've stepped foot. Saint Bavo made Saint Waudru look small and amateur in comparison. First step inside, my son noticed right away that you could see your breath. It was a balmy 47 degrees outside, but we could see our breath inside. We looked at all the beautiful stained glass work and the little alcoves around the center chapel. Many of the alcoves, which seems to be typical, housed some underfloor crypts. Others, had more ornate coffins with carved tops of the person inside. One in  particular, had a very oddly lounging Bishop on top. The marble and stonework was amazing. Much of the stone and wood was so well cared for that it shone. This place is hundreds to years old and it was shiny. They layers of wax and polish would protect the wood from anything.
Inside one of the alcoves they had a harpist playing. Though is little stand with CDs to sell was a little awkward, he had a sedate smile that when coupled with the music was quite soothing. I would have liked to look inside that alcove, but it was off limits while he was playing.
Another alcove housed The Mystic Lamb or Ghent altarpiece that is an amazing piece of artwork, arguably the most famous in all of Belgium.  It was huge and very difficult to see since the doors were shut and you had to observe through the marble pillars and scroll work on the doors. There was a smaller replica displayed in another alcove that you could get closer to so you could see some details. And let me tell you, the details were amazing. Adam and Eve are on opposite panels and they look so real, it's almost like they could walk off the canvas. It was very interesting the differences between Adam and Eve. Adam is so modest in his panel, looking shy and almost hiding his chest along with his leaf area. Eve, on the other hand, looks bored and hardly modest enough to use her leaf. Her breasts are bare and she looks almost provocative in her panel. She is also is not holding an apple, but another fruit that is often referred to as, "Adam's Apple." The details on those two alone are spectacular, but the rest of the frames are equally detailed. You'll have to look at the link to read about it.
After our tour of the cathedral, we went outside to run the boy and look around. We found a lovely chocolate shop that is currently my most favorite Belgian chocolate. Ahhh, the creaminess is just lovely. Then we took off to find the canals.
We crossed over a pedestrian bridge and looked at some of the artwork atop the buildings. We saw the only dragon weather vane that I've ever seen on the Belfry. There was lots of construction going on at the Belfry, so we'll have to see inside that at a later time. My husband and I had a stressful stroll along the canal, with our son very excited to walk on the edge and look for ducks in the water. He spotted Poseidon with his spear in the middle of the canal and was bothered until he told me, "Mom, that guy in the water is only a statue." Then we saw the castle.
Gravensteen Castle has a nice little self-paced walking tour that takes you in all parts of the castle. This castle, the first one we've been in so far, was built in 1180. That alone is amazing. It isn't a large castle, in castle standards, but it does have the walkways and arrow slits, crazy, carved, curved staircases and the damp chill that you'd expect in a castle. If the displays and information boards have it correct, there were many, many executions and punishments performed at Gravensteen Castle. One display showed a mannequin stretched out on a cot with his hands and feet bound and stretched with a funnel in his mouth to pour water directly into his stomach. It left little to the imagination, especially when my son went over the pet the mannequin's wig like he was comforting him. (kinds creepy, right?) It does have the tingly feel that made my husband state that this was a place my step-dad would love to spend the night. Although, most of the time we were behind a tourgroup of 12 year olds, we enjoyed it.
We had a great day, despite a nap-deprived toddler. He thoroughly enjoyed the city square and running around the weapons and armor displays at the castle. I greatly enjoyed getting to see more of this beautiful country and my husband enjoyed having a weekend off from coaching so he could be with us. It was a lovely city, one that we'll gladly go back to.